Monday, 31 October 2011

Rave Magazine Winter Fashion 1968









                                Look like a real dyed bunny? This cosy coat is, in fact, fur fabric!
                                And it's a real startler for brunettes! From Alexon Youngset, 16gns


          A smart, military style for this luxurious trouser suit in red wool with red mongolian lamb jacket,
          super buckle belt and hood. By Mansfields, 41gns. Black boots by Dolcis, 8gns.


             Bunny looking more like a jail-bird for this chevron design, zip-up coat in beige and white.
             By Goodkind Furs, 31gns. Beige leather boots by Dolcis, 8 gns. And the hat? ....
             Borrowed from a Russian taxi driver!


                                Madly extravagant, a real fox fur coat by Rosenberg Furs, 80gns.



                     Double-breasted with a difference-this coat has luggage type fastening!
                     In simulated black fur, by Alexon Youngset, 16gns. Black boots called "Riding"
                     by Dolcis, 8gns.


                           Cuddly fake fur coat with matching gaiters (not shown). By Kashmoor,
                           coat 22gns., gaiters 1½ gns.




                                                                PHOTO CREDITS
                  All images & original text scanned by Sweet Jane  from Rave Magazine november 1968

Friday, 28 October 2011

Vintage advert: Coty Originals - Betsey Johnson 1967



                         Body Paint by Coty Originals..Dress by Betsey Johnson for Paraphernalia
                            

                                                                      IMAGE CREDIT 
                                    Image scanned by Sweet Jane from Seventeen Magazine, July 1967.

Thursday, 27 October 2011

Vintage Advert - Vidal Sassoon 1969

                                            



                                                Tights by Berkshire, Hair by Vidal Sassoon
                                                           

                                                               
                                                              IMAGE CREDITS

                                      Image scanned by Sweet Jane from Flair Magazine 1969 

Thursday, 20 October 2011

Rave Magazine 1964

                                                                Issue No. 8 September 1964



                                                                Issue No. 10 November 1964



                                                                   Issue No. 9 October 1964
      


                                                                      Issue No. 6  July 1964


                                                                    IMAGE CREDITS
                               All images scanned by Sweet Jane from my personal collection of RAVE.

Wednesday, 12 October 2011

New York's Young Design Scene - Abracadabra Boutique 1967


                                NEW YORK'S YOUNG DESIGN SCENE

A fantastic fashion editorial, originally published in August of 1967, introducing upcoming design talent from New York's fashion and art students, and also featuring amazing use of infrared photography by Barry Kaplan. All of the designs were available exclusively from Abracadabra, Marcia Weinraub's recently opened boutique on East 60th Street. The stars and stripes outfit in the third photograph has been a particular favourite of mine for many years. I had previously seen it used as a 1960s design reference in a couple of  fashion source books, however, there was never any credit given to the designer or photographer, so I couldn't believe my luck when I purchased this issue of LIFE a few months ago, it's great to be able to finally put a name to both. Apparently, in reality (without the use of infrared film) the outfit is actually a patriotic red, white and blue! Everyone included in this article had great potential, and having studied fashion and worked in the industry myself, I would like to think that they all went on to have successful careers. 

I was intrigued enough to do some further research and know what became of them after it was was published, but of the seven designers featured, only one significantly active fashion lead emerged, that being Barbara Hodes, a graduate of the Parsons School of Design in New York, former girlfriend of Lou Reed and a regular face at The Factory and Max's Kansas City in the 1960s and 1970s, who also sold her work through Paraphernalia and several other boutiques in the city during this period. She has continued to work in the industry, currently designs a contemporary knitwear line for women under the Bibelot label which she founded in 1999, and runs NYC Private Shopping Tours. As for the others, perhaps they changed their surnames over time through marriage or for some other reason, which makes it difficult to track them down, or it's probable that they may have moved away from fashion entirely to concentrate on other areas within design. I think that Karen Sebiri (quite possibly the daughter of Celia Sebiri - prominent Coty Award winning  jewellery designer) may have changed direction and also pursued a career in jewellery design instead, and that Paula Ayers moved to Sonoma to pursue a BA in Environmental Studies at Sonoma State, and eventually co-organized the First West Coast Eco-Feminist Conference. As of yet, I have no further information on the other designers, Terry Berman, Leilani Abreu, Susanne Les, and Stan Weaver or the photographer Barry Kaplan. 


                                                         UNDER 21
                             WAY-OUT FASHION IN A BIZARRE YOUNG WORLD
Canary lips, chalk-white skin, flaming hair - is this really what's happening, baby? Not quite. The clothes are designed to be worn by young people under 21, but the colours are something else. They are the doing of an inventive photographer, himself equally young, who achieved his bizarre effect by using infrared film. As if seen under the madly shifting lights of a discotheque, red turns to yellow, blacks to red, blues to purple and reality to fantasy. Fledgling fashionmakers some not yet out of school, are responsible for the designs shown here. Produced by their creators on a one-of-a-kind basis, they are sold at a New York boutique called Abracadabra.



                      Skimpy knit dresses $50, designed by Leilani Abreu, worn with Dynel wigs by Tovar.
               



Velvet (the kind that's used for upholstery) makes a formal-style knicker suit ($75) designed by Terry Berman, who had just finished her first year at Tobé-Coburn.

                 

               

                                             Star and stripes outfit ($40) designed by art student Karen Sebiri.

                         


                                                         Zippered nylon suit ($90) by Barbara Hodes.
                                                           

                                            

Short shift of clashing stripes with one bare shoulder, has a diagonally cut-off hemline, designed by Susanne Les, a student at Parsons School of Design. 

           



                                             Button trimmed dress ($70) by art student Karen Sebiri.

                                             


Suspendered overall ($70) worn with a ruffle-trimmed satin blouse and antique silver buttons designed by Paula Ayers, a graduate of the Fashion Institute of Technology Design School.
    



  Mini wedding dress of white organdy ($200) designed by Stan Weaver, a graduate of Parsons School of Design.


                         
                                                     IMAGE CREDITS & LINKS
All images scanned by Sweet Jane from LIFE Magazine, August 1967. All photographs by Barry Kaplan. A recent Q&A with Barbara Hodes about her NYC Shopping tours and more.  A fantastic interview with Victor Bockris author of Transformer: The Complete Lou Reed Story by Tobe Damit over on Loud Alien Noize. Here, you'll find The West Coast Ecofeminist Conference website. View some of my previous New York Fashion posts from 1967, New York - Fashions Golden CityStars & Garters at The Electric Circus - New York's East Village 1967 and also Betsey Johnson for Paraphernalia.  And finally, The downstairs is packed and the groupies are all dressed up. Upstairs the New York Dolls are kickin' it out looking tough Down at Max's Kansas City.




Wednesday, 5 October 2011

Dandy Fashion: Male Plumage 1968


Scene: Master Bedroom in Suburbia.  Time: Saturday, 8 p.m

The master of the house stands before a three-way, floor-length mirror, 
touching up his 2-inch sideburns and drooping Zapata mustache. He looks gratified-even thrilled.
But what to wear? Should it be his eggshell brocade Nehru suit? Or his simulated cobra skin double-
breasted dinner jacket? Or his lime colored tunic with a chain belt and zip-up white mink coat?
Time passes. Finally, going to the closet, he grabs a diaphanous blouse with ruffles, then his royal blue
crushed-velvet suit. Moments later, he is back at the mirror admiring the Napoleonic roll of the 6-inch collar, the pinched waist, the svelte velvet pants and the slender patent-leather slippers with the silver buckles. After a quick application of his face bronzer and a last caress of his razor-cut graying hair,the man strides from the bedroom and descends the staircase. "Well?" he asks. "Fantastic," snarls his wife. "But I wish you wouldn't take so long. We're already a half hour late."

This is the intro to an eight page editorial originally published in Newsweek Magazine on the 25th of November 1968, which pays homage to the rebirth of the dandy. There are some very good interviews with designers such as Pierre Cardin, Oleg Cassini, Bill Blass and Hardy Amies, it also covers the rise of the lesser known new male boutiques and trends of the time. Apparently in London, an american public-relations consultant named Larry Thaw opened a boutique called Sids - devoted entirely to red, green, tan, dark blue, gray and tortoise-shell patent leather shoes, while in New York a boutique called 'The Zoo' (Attire for the male animal) specialized in vinyl jackets and suits, sample Zoo fare: a $90 yellow vinyl see-through bush jacket to be worn over a jumpsuit. In Los Angeles, The Great Linoleum Clothing Experiment were selling old shirts decorated with new swatches of doilies and shawls (average price $40). And in Palm Beach designer Lily Pulitzer was offering silk-screen prints on corduroy trousers and also experimenting with designs for boldly flowered underwear! The trends in menswear were now changing so rapidly, many of the big department stores began to realise that they could no longer afford to order their stock six months in advance, at the time that this issue went to print several of the most prominent retailers had found themselves with a glut of Nehru jackets on their hands as the style suddenly began to wither!!! An interesting article, worth picking up a copy for the rest of the details if you are in any way interested in menswear from this period, you should be able to find an issue on Ebay eventually, until then I'll leave you with some of my favourite quotes from the piece...


Oleg Cassini: "I'm an outdoor man with an indoor look. I look like a villain, a bird of prey..I was probably the first hippie."

Bill Blass: "I am convinced that, other than speech, there is no better way to express yourself than through clothes."

Hardy Amies: "Let's face it, The men's clothing industry-especially Savile Row-was caught napping. They were still thinking like eminent Victorians when all around them young men were in revolt." (recalling the explosion of mod fashion in London.)




Newsweek cover photo by Didier Dorot, men's apparel courtesy of Alexander's, Bill Blass for PBM, and The Different Drummer. 


A Golden God: Millionaire Michael Butler, jet-set producer of "Hair," strikes a statuesque pose wearing his Tibetan saffron cloak. Photo by Maurice Hogenboom.



                                       Sun Bright: Flowered Lily Pulitzer jeans. Photo by Frank Zagarino



Peter Noone of Herman's Hermits photographed outside Zoo the New York boutique which he opened in partnership with Graham Gouldman, 1968. (Located at 243 East 60th Street.)

  
             Designer Oleg Cassini wears his informal ''International Cowboy Look.'' Photo by Steve Schapiro. 


In his Beverly Hills discotheque called The Candy Store, hair stylist Gene Shacove takes to the dance floor and sock's it to 'em with his three-button, Napoleonic walking suit. Photo by JuliaWasser


Double-breasted fashions, including such decorative items as a dangling medallion and blue turtleneck, are popular with such notable sports as Bill Russell of the champion Boston Celtics. Photo by Bob Gomel.


                                                                        IMAGE CREDITS
All images scanned by Sweet Jane from Newsweek magazine 25 November 1968. Original editorial by Associate Editor Pat Smith & reporters Lynn Young and Ainslie Dinwiddle.

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